Friday, January 1, 2010

Suimeikan




















The name of the onsen (hot spring) resort we visited about a week ago is called, Suimeikan. And like all onsens in Japan, they are known for 2 things: the volcanically-heated water & the food. I guess the closest western approximation to "onsen" would be an "inn", typically in the bed & breakfast style. However, unlike most inns in the States where they are relatively small establisments, the onsens here are typically closer in occupant capacity to a medium sized hotel.

About 10 years ago, when Ericka was teaching elementary school here, 2 of her students were from a family that has owned, and still currently operates, a large onsen resort for the last 4 generations. Around that time and much to our good fortune, Ericka befriended the current owner and father of those 2 students. In those early days before children, Ericka & I were guests at his resort on 3 occasions. Most memorable times for sure.

So way back in early 2009, when we knew we were moving to Tokyo, Ericka contacted the father, Mr. Ichikawa, to let him know our relocation plans and of our desire to introduce the girls to "onsen life". He happily obliged and on the 28th of December we boarded the Romance Car (an express train) and sped west 1.5 hours to a hot spring resort town on the ocean known as Yugawara.

We checked in, were shown to our room and quickly shuffled down to the outdoor bath wrapped in our yukattas (basically a light weight Japanese robe). There were only 2 other guests in the bath when we gingerly stepped our way into the steaming, geo-thermically heated water and upon seeing us 4 white barbarians enter, promptly made their exit.

Ahhhh, a beautiful outdoor hot spring soak beneath Japanese Maple trees and the sound of a rushing river all to ourselves.

An amazing dinner was served in our room and after an unbelievable feast on sashimi, stewed daikon, seafood nabe, black sesame-veined tofu and an untold number of local, fresh veggies in all manner of preparedness (plus a lovely sake!), we sat back and let the girls flop around on the tatami mats.

Shortly after the debris from dinner was cleared, 2 staff members pulled our futon bedding from the closets and deftly transformed the "dining room" into our "bedroom". Definitely not the hotel services one can expect from North American establishments.

We 4 were encased in futon mattresses and down duvets by 8:30pm.

Up at 7-ish the next morning, Ericka was the first one down for an early soak in the baths. At 8 o'clock breakfast was brought in and following yet another feast , Miki & I grabbed robes and made our way downstairs for one last go at the (addicting) hot water tubs. Just after check-out we took a nice stroll along the river, said our goodbye's to Mr. Ichikawa and hopped the train back to Tokyo. Alas, all good things do come to an end.

I do hope to return again, perhaps when Sam is a bit older but hopefully sooner!


Mr. Ichikawa, thank you kindly for your hospitality. As always, Suimeikan never fails to impress & pamper . It was great to see you after so many years. Akemashite omedetto gozaimasu!



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